Few adventures invoke as much inner peace and calm as my trips through the Karoo. Escaping the clamour of Port Elizabeth and weathering the smog-stained gauntlet of trucks and taxis, I am at last met by open skies and the welcoming embrace of the Western Cape’s winding, well-kept roads. What a pleasure! Clean air, clear skies, not another vehicle for kilometres around and plenty of time and space to think, imagine and recycle.
I would highly recommend a sojourn in the Karoo for those who have not yet experienced its soul-cleansing and mind healing properties. Even without the beautiful journey—its charming stops, hearty meals and the renowned kindness of the Karoo people—there is a wealth of hidden delights waiting to fill your time and memories.
One of my favourite pastimes in the Karoo is to simply enjoy a glass of local wine or craft beer while I look up at the serene and satin night sky as it shows off its many constellations, planets and occasional shooting star, unhindered and totally oblivious of any big city lights or noise pollution.
A hidden gem in the Klein Karoo (at least until the secret got out) is Prince Albert. Prince Albert is a tiny town in the Western Cape (situated between Oudtshoorn to the south and Beaufort West to the northeast). From either side of town, to its middle and surrounds, there is a treasure trove of sights to see and experiences to be had.
The journey from Port Elizabeth to Prince Albert takes you through the Langkloof Pass (known for its fruit farming), Uniondale (known for, among other things, its famous female ghost) and the spectacular Meiringspoort Pass.
You’re going to want to make a few stops in each of these places:
The Sweaty Dutchman in Kareedouw – not a very appealing name for an eatery, but by far the best sweet and savory pancakes you will taste this side of the equator.
African Aloe Café in Uniondale for a good coffee and their famous jaffles – try the bobotie one!
Cilla’s and Village Trading Post in De Rust – try the pizza at the former and the amazing pastrami sandwiches or delicious sausage rolls at the latter!
Meiringspoort Pass – about midway through this pass there is a stop in which you can catch up on some brief history of the development of the pass and what kind of fauna and flora to expect there. Then if you are feeling energetic there is a 3-minute walk up the side of the cliff to a wondrous waterfall oasis where families and friends jump into the rockpool or sit and enjoy the surrounds.
Upon leaving Meiringspoort Pass, you have what is possibly my favourite part of the road trip. With mountains on either side of you and vast open veld all around (a palette which changes colour depending on the season) it is the most awe-inspiring leg of the journey. Pictures, although beautifully captured, just don’t do it justice. You need to be there to experience it firsthand.
Upon entering Prince Albert it doesn’t take long before the subtle charms of what makes the town so aesthetically pleasing appear before you. Prince Albert is comprised of Cape Dutch Style homes (inspired by early Dutch Settlers with whitewashed walls and iron roofs, elegant gables and wooden shutters), Karoo Cottages (of simple, symmetrical design, thick stone walls, iron roofs and deep verandas with cast-iron or wooden detailing), Victorian Homes (ornate homes with decorative wooden trim, large sash windows and wrap-around verandas, high ceilings and polished wooden floors) and Modern Eco Homes (blending traditional Karoo elements with sustainable materials and making good use of solar power, rainwater harvesting and passive cooling systems). Lately, many houses in Prince Albert have been beautifully restored, keeping their historic charm while offering modern comforts.
One such house is Casa Milorca – a wildly popular guesthouse in Prince Albert. Staying here is like finding your own little slice of Karoo heaven. With two rooms in the main house and a cosy outside cottage, it is peaceful, personal, and full of character. The high ceilings and old-school, winding metal staircase give the place a unique charm and there is even a quiet reading room if you feel like taking it slow. Outside, the terraced garden is perfect for lazying about, the pool is a dream on hot days and the braai area makes it easy to enjoy long, lazy evenings under the stars. It is the kind of place you will wish you had more time to enjoy.
By far the biggest attraction in Prince Albert is the long list of eateries in and around the main road. If it is an ice-cold draught beer or a refreshing gin and tonic you are after, The Green Prince Gin Bar in the main street needs to be at the top of your list. Across the road from The Green Prince Gin Bar is The Rude Chef. Henriette, who is anything but rude, offers a comprehensive menu with some traditional Karoo meals. Some honourable mentions are The Prince Albert Café, Yellow House, The Lazy Lizard and Local Roots.
One of the unexpected highlights of a visit to Prince Albert is meeting Diederik, the warm and passionate winemaker behind Fernkloof Wines. His hospitality is as memorable as his wine—welcoming guests with genuine enthusiasm and a deep love for his craft. Whether you’re a wine connoisseur or just along for the tasting, Diederik makes you feel right at home. A visit to Fernkloof isn’t just about great wine—it’s about connecting with the people and passion that make this region so special.
Cruising away from the cuisine, there are some beautiful spots to visit and activities to enjoy. Just outside either side of town are three farms worth visiting: Gay’s Dairy, O for Olive and Weltevrede Fig Farm.
A visit to Prince Albert wouldn’t be complete without stopping by Gay’s Dairy, a beloved local gem that’s been producing top-quality dairy for decades. Renowned for their cheeses and fresh milk, Gay’s has become a go-to for both locals and travellers looking for authentic, farm-fresh products.
Some of South Africa’s best olives, olive oils, salad dressings, tapenades, chutneys, marmalades and jams are created at O for Olive. Enjoy an olive tasting, take a tour of their farm or visit their restaurant.
The drive to Weltevrede Fig Farm is part of the charm. A dusty dirt track leads you through open farmlands with mountain views all around. It is peaceful and quiet, with the occasional windmill, or farmhouse dotting the landscape. The scenery changes with every bend—wide fields, orchards and glimpses of the mountains in the distance. The air feels fresher out here, with a hint of the figs waiting at the end of the road. By the time you reach the farm, nestled at the foot of the mountains, you’ll feel like you’ve discovered a hidden gem—far from the rush and well worth the journey. You cannot leave this beautiful spot without tasting their famous fig tart and cream.
There is something special about taking the road less travelled—especially when that road is the winding Swartberg Pass. It is not just the thrill of navigating its gravel curves and steep climbs, but the reward that waits at the top: a quiet spot high above the world, where the vast Karoo stretches out in every direction. This is the best place to enjoy some champagne and a picnic basket. The view is endless, rugged and breathtaking and the perfect spot to rest your mind.
A good weekend away is not complete without getting the heart rate up and enjoying some outdoor exercise. The Gordon Koppie Trail is a perfect introduction to the natural beauty surrounding Prince Albert. This easy-to-moderate hike winds gently along the koppie (hill) just above town, offering stunning panoramic views. Along the way, you’ll pass through classic Karoo vegetation, spot a few hardy succulents and enjoy the wide-open sky. At the top, the reward is well worth it—a sweeping view of Prince Albert nestled below, with the Swartberg mountains standing proudly in the distance. It is a peaceful, scenic walk ideal for early mornings or late afternoons.
As the weekend winds down, there’s no better way to end your time in the Karoo than with one of its signature sunsets. Find a quiet spot—maybe the edge of a dirt road, a koppie overlooking the valley, or just the stoep of your guesthouse—and watch as the sky slowly transforms. Shades of gold, orange and deep pink stretch across the horizon, casting a warm glow over the rugged landscape. It’s a moment of stillness and reflection, the perfect close to a weekend of wide-open spaces, fresh air and simple pleasures.
Prince Albert and the greater Karoo region offer a kind of beauty that is hard to put into words (although I have tried here) —vast open spaces, dramatic mountain passes, star-filled skies and a quiet that soothes the soul. Whether you’re exploring charming dirt roads, hiking trails with sweeping views, or simply enjoying the warmth of local hospitality, every moment here feels grounded and unforgettable. It is a place where time slows down, nature takes the spotlight and simple pleasures leave a lasting impression. If you’re craving a getaway that is a little off the beaten track but rich in experience, make your way to Prince Albert. You won’t regret it.
